Newsletter – April 2018

By 25th September 2018 June 14th, 2019 Newsletters

Tip of the Month

It’s rock-climbing season again as winter fades away and the April showers start to blow over for good (I hope). For the next few issues of the Newsletter I’m going to look at some more tips on racking your trad rock climbing gear on your harness, specifically racking wires.

When you buy a set of wires (Sizes 1-11) or even two sets, one each from different brands, a novice will often rack all wires from the set on a single karabiner. It seems logical enough and looks sort of neat.

However, in reality, when we place a wire we will have spotted a particular crack of a particular size, so in reality the choice of which wire will fit into is limited to two or three wires. To make finding the right wire easier, divide your fell complement of wires into two or three groups of similar sizes and then rack similar sized wires together on their own karabiner (small wires, medium wires and large wires.)

My ‘favourite’ (most used) karabiner of wires is without doubt the one that holds one each of a DMM Wallnut and Wild Country Rock in Sizes 4,5 & 6 along with DMM Offsets Sizes 7, 8 & 9. When you look at the colour coding, this means 3 gold, 3 blue and 3 red.

Quote of the Month

“Sport doesn’t build character – it reveals it.”

Route of the Month

For those of you who might join me at Stanage on courses in the near future, here’s a great little route, perfect for those learning to climb and get used to typical gritstone techniques in particular. It’s the classic Heaven Crack (Very Difficult, 3-Star, and one of the ‘Top 50’ in the Rockfax Eastern Grit book). Perfect for practising your layback technique.

Photo of the Month

A fantastic shot of someone climbing on my favourite crag, Gimmer Crag, high up in Langdale in the Lake District.

mountaineering path

© Sean Kelly, UKC

Upcoming Events

  • 28-29 April 2018. Classic Welsh climbs (Severe to Very Severe). Fully booked.
  • 5-6 May 2018. Introduction to Rock Climbing (Peak District). Fully booked.
  • 19-20 May 2018. Design your own course!Rock climbing, scrambling, walking? Once we have agreed what you want then I’ll advertise it for others.
  • 26-27 May 2018. Advanced Scrambling, Grade 2-3 (Snowdonia). Fully booked.
  • 16-17 June 2018. Introduction to Alpine Mountaineering Ropework (Snowdonia).
  • 18-22 June 2018. 5-Day Introduction to Trad Rock Climbing (Snowdonia).
  • 13-14 July 2018. Glencoe Scrambling weekend (Glencoe, Scotland).
  • 16-20 July 2018. 5-Day Introduction to Scrambling (Snowdonia).
  • 30 July-3 August 2018. 5-Day Trad Rock Climbing course for Improvers/Developers(Snowdonia).
  • 4-5 August 2018. Torridon Scrambling weekend (Torridon, NW Scotland).

Download this newsletter as a PDF (below)

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