Newsletter – August 2018

By 25th September 2018 November 26th, 2018 Newsletters

Tip of the Month

As you’ll see from my Route of the Month below, there’s a little bit of a sports climbing theme this month. So, here’s a little tip involving the use of a ‘cheat-stick’, or ‘clip-stick’ to give it its proper name.

Suppose you have just completed a sports climb and had used the clip-stick to clip the first bolt. Your partner now wants to lead the route but, like you, with the first bolt already clipped.

Start to pull your rope down, having left all the quick draws in place. Just before the tail of the rope reaches the lower-off point at the top, pause and reach up with the clip-stick and twist the head of the stick around the rope just above the first bolt. Now pull the rope using the clip-stick.

The last bit of the rope will run through the lower-off and it will whistle down to the ground leaving the first bolt already clipped and ready to climb. Voilà.

Quote of the Month

“An adventure is a series of well-managed risks.”

Route of the Month

This month I took the unusual step of heading to the south of UK, to Dorset, for some sport climbing on Portland. This is somewhere that I have never climbed before. For all you folks in the south of England, a ‘must do’ route is Reptile Smile (6a+, 3 Star). It includes climbing up ‘organ pipes’ of flowstone, the likes of which you won’t find anywhere else in the UK.

Photo of the Month

This is the famous ‘Tower Gap’ on Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis. Come and try it as a summer climb/scramble and then who knows, one day as a winter climb?

mountaineering path

© Paluhci, UKC

Forthcoming Events

  • 6-7 October 2018.“First come first served”. Design your own two-day course (walking, navigation, climbing, scrambling etc).
  • 10-11 November 2018. Mountain navigation course – either Introductory level or Advanced level, including ‘Contour Masterclass’.
  • 24-25 November 2018.NNAS Bronze Level Award.
  • Winter 2018-19. Now taking bookings for all courses, including:
    • 18-21 January 2019. Introduction to Winter Mountaineering (Cairngorms).
    • 8-11 February 2019. Introduction to Winter Mountaineering (Cairngorms).
    • 16-17 February 2019. Introduction to Winter Mountaineering (Ben Nevis).
  • January-March 2019.Winter climbing courses – 2,3,4, or 5 days; Beginner or Improver; West Coast (Ben Nevis) or East Coast (Cairngorms).

Download this newsletter as a PDF (below)

Newsletter 2018 08