Tip of the Month
When rock climbing and placing straight-forward passive protection, such as DMM Wallnuts or Wild Country Rocks, remember that each piece of gear can be placed in 4 different ways (although 2 of them are rarely likely to seem different, so you can think of it as 3 ways.
First, try and place the piece with the curves in contact with the rock, facing left or right depending on what looks most promising. If you are not satisfied with this, perhaps because of some undulation in the rock that was not immediately apparent, then remove it and try it facing the other way (left or right). Finally, you could try and place it with the straight edges in contact with the rock.
Generally speaking, the more metal to rock contact there is, then the more secure the placement will be.
Fact of the Month
The first officially recorded ascent of Vignemale (3,298m), the highest peak in the French Pyrenees, was in 1838. It was made by a certain Ann Lister, who had also climbed Monte Perdido (3.355m), the third highest in the Pyrenees, a few years earlier.
It’s possible that some of you might recognise her name but can’t quite place it for a moment. This is the same Ann Lister whose diaries are the subject of the current BBC drama, “Gentleman Jack”. She was quite a character.
Route of the Month
It’s definitely scrambling season and this month I’m going to recommend East Gully Ridge on Glyder Fach main cliff. It’s a Grade 3+, and the guidebook says “A technically challenging route at the upper end of the scrambling spectrum.” It’s a brilliant way up the big cliffs of Glyder Fach and definitely one to tick off for the committed scramblers amongst you.
Photo of the Month
This is the penultimate pitch of the classic climb Flying Buttress on Dinas Cromlech in Llanberis. At this point, the exposure suddenly becomes apparent!
Here are some of the scheduled events coming up in the near future:
- 6 July. NNAS Tutor Award Course.
- 11-14 August. Glencoe Scrambles (The Zig Zags and Curved Ridge) and Tower Ridge (Ben Nevis) over 3 days. (Currently fully booked).
- August. Still some limited weekday and weekend availability, predominantly for rock-climbing and scrambling courses in Snowdonia and the Lake District.
- 24-25 August. Two-Day Mountain Navigation Course (Keswick, Lake District).
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