Newsletter – May 2018

Tip of the Month

This time I’m going to give you a little tip on how your mind should work when selecting ‘trad’ gear to place as protection on a climb.

First, an analogy. Imagine that you have to repair a hole in a wall in your living room. You repair the hole as required with filler or plaster, or whatever (I’m a mountaineer, by the way, not a builder/decorator). Now you have to paint over the repair to make it blend it perfectly with the surrounding paintwork. So, off you go to B&Q and pick up one of the little colour charts or key-rings with coloured tabs on them, covering the range of colours that you are likely to use. Carefully, you hold up your colour cards alongside the existing paintwork, flicking between them until you find the perfect match.

So it is with placing ‘trad’ gear. Identify a potential crack as the placement, then hold up your wires or cams alongside until you find the best match.

Don’t do it the other way, which is to choose a piece of gear that you like and then search the rock for somewhere it will fit…

Quote of the Month

“He who is ashamed of asking is ashamed of learning.”

Route of the Month

Here’s one for those who started some gritstone climbing and want to progress a little onto slightly harder things. “Bishop’s Route” (Severe 4a, 3-Star, and another of the ‘Top 50’ in the Rockfax Eastern Grit book). It has a great mixture of moves – firstly a dynamic and bold big step and pull to gain the mid-way traverse line. Then just before the top, a series of high steps up the typical horizontal breaks on this kind of rock. Dramatic, just where it should be – right at the top.

Photo of the Month

I think I’ve featured this view before – but then again it is considered to be one of the most photogenic climbs in the UK. It’s Gargoyle Flake at Bamford Edge in the Peak District. (See how the top layer of rock looks like a gargoyle?)

mountaineering path

© samtaylorphotos

Forthcoming Events

  • 26-27 May 2018. Advanced Scrambling, Grade 2-3 (Snowdonia). Fully booked.
  • 16-17 June 2018. Beginners’ or Improvers’ Rock Climbing (Peak District).
  • 18-22 June 2018. 5-Day Introduction to Trad Rock Climbing (Snowdonia).
  • 7-8 July 20178. Introduction to Scrambling (Easy Grade 1) (Snowdonia).
  • 13-14 July 2018. Glencoe Scrambling weekend (Glencoe, Scotland).
  • 16-20 July 2018. 5-Day Introduction to Scrambling (Snowdonia).
  • 21-22 July 2018. Introduction to Multi-Pitch Rock-Climbing.(Snowdonia). Fully booked.
  • 28-29 July 2018. Advanced Scrambling, Grade 2-3 (Snowdonia). Fully booked.
  • 30 July-3 August 2018. 5-Day Trad Rock Climbing course for Improvers/Developers(Snowdonia).
  • 3-5 August 2018. Torridon Scrambling weekend (Torridon, NW Scotland).

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Newsletter 2018 05