Trad Climbing Starter Lead Rack

By 26th October 2018 Kit Lists, Resources

Trad Climbing Starter Lead Rack

This is a suggested list for a ‘trad’ leader to get them started lead climbing, taking a barely-equipped second.

  • General:
    • 1 x belay device
    • 1 x screw gate krab for the belay device (Recommend DMM Sentinel)
    • 1 x nut key
    • 2 x prussic loops
    • 1 x wiregate krab (Recommend DMM Spectre 2) to keep prussics on
    • 1 x lanyard or sling to use as cow’s tail (Recommend Beal Dynaloop or else a length of dynamic rope cut to size)
  • Passive protection
    • 1 x set DMM Wallnuts 1-11
    • 1 x set Wild Country Rocks 1-11
    • 1 x set DMM Alloy Offsets 7-11
  • Quickdraws
    • Around 10 quick draws of assorted lengths (Recommend 2 x sets of DMM Alpha Trad Quickdraw x 5 in assorted sizes)
  • Sling-draws
    • 4 x 60cm x 8mm Dyneema slings
    • 4 x wiregate karabiner in ‘gear end’ colour (Recommend DMM Spectre 2 in Silver)
    • 4 x wiregate karabiner in ‘rope end’ colour (Recommend DMM Spectre 2 in Red)
  • Slings
    • 2 x 240cm x 11mm Dyneema sling
    • 2 x 120cm x 11mm Dyneema sling
    • 2 x 120cm Edelrid Aramid sling
  • Screwgate karabiners
    • 1 x DMM Boa karabiner (for multiple clove hitches at belays)
    • 6 x DMM Sentinel karabiners for use at belays etc

To buy later:

  • Active protection
    • 1 x set DMM Dragon Cams Size 0 (Silver) to 5 (Blue) (or equivalent cam set from another manufacturer