Tip #40 – Placing Traditional Passive Protection

By 26th July 2019 March 19th, 2020 Resources, Tips

Placing Traditional Passive Protection

(You can learn more about placing protection on a ‘trad’ rock climbing course in Yorkshire, the Peak District, the Lake District and Snowdonia.)

DMM Wallnuts or Wild Country Rocks (often collectively referred to as ‘wires’) are examples of traditional passive protection. When placing these, remember that each piece of gear can be placed in four different ways. However, two of them are rarely likely to seem different, so you can think of it as three ways.

First, try and place the piece with the curves in contact with the rock, facing left or right depending on what looks most promising. If you are not satisfied with this, perhaps because of some undulation in the rock that was not immediately apparent, then remove it and try it facing the other way (left or right). Finally, you can try and place it with the straight edges in contact with the rock.

Generally speaking, the more metal to rock contact there is, then the more secure the placement will be.

You can read further tips on how to rack your wires for easy access and on how to make an initial judgement as to which wire might best fit a crack.